Since your water is turned off at the primary source, you can turn your valves on (if they’re not already) and drain water from the lines.

Unless you want to deal with a water fountain when you open the water shut-off valve, shut down the water supply to the laundry room before you start tinkering with your plumbing.

Slowly turn on the shut-off valve, watching for leaks. If you find leaks, remove the parts, apply more plumber’s tape and reassemble.

If it’s been sitting in place for many years or you have hard water corrosion, it may take some convincing. Attach a pipe to the end of your wrench for added leverage.

Your shut-off valve will be behind the washing machine. Most sit about hip height and include both cold water and hot water valves.

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Even if your setup brings a bit more complexity, this is a task most DIY homeowners can manage without calling in the pros.

Materials: lead-free bronze body and test cocks; rubber check valve and relief valve assemblies; and 909 Celcon® check seats and relief valve seats. Standards: AWWA C511-92, IAPMO (UPCO), SBCCI (Standard Plumbing code), USC FCCCHR Manual Section 10. Approvals: ASSE® listed 1013, CSA B64.4, UPC®.

Some washing machine shut-off valves will have screws holding them in place. Look for them before spending too much time trying to heavy-hand the removal.

Twist or screw the new shut-off valve or valves into place, using the reverse of whatever technique it took to remove the old one.

It’s also useful in managing maintenance and repairs, so when it springs a leak or freezes in place it’s time to address the issue.

If this is the case, use a drywall saw for sheetrock or a keyhole saw for wood. Make your cut clean and save the piece you remove so you can make the wall repair later on.

Materials: lead-free bronze body and test cocks; rubber check valve and relief valve assemblies; and 909 Celcon® check seats and relief valve seats. Standards: AWWA C511-92, IAPMO (UPCO), SBCCI (Standard Plumbing code), USC FCCCHR Manual Section 10. Approvals: ASSE® listed 1013, CSA B64.4, UPC®.

Even if the second shut-off valve is still functioning and not leaking, you may want to consider also replacing it at this time.

Your hoses should be attached to the valves. Some valves are further down in the wall, behind the drywall, paneling, or other wall finish.

If you try everything but still can’t get the valve to release from the pipe, you’ll need to cut out a section of pipe that includes the valve.

Some unfortunate designs hide the shut-off valve behind the wall. If you’re lucky there’s an access panel or a way to reach it through the existing hole the hose goes through.

Unplug your washing machine from the power source to avoid accidents. You’ll probably need to move the washing machine out of the way to give yourself adequate workspace.