After shutting off water to diagnose, I noticed the T&P valve was fully opened (by itself). Which, after much googling, appears to be unusual. It seems like when it opens and doesn't close, it doesn't fully open (from what I gather) and should only let out a moderate amount of water (not

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Last night, a neighbor came to my door to let me know my garage was leaking significant water. I went down and my entire garage was flooded (~3 inches tall). The water was flowing full force from the copper pipe attached to the T&P Valve.

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This exact issue just happened to me: water heater pressure - temperature relief valve was completely open, gushing water.. We noticed the water was not super-heated, so a stuck thermostat was ruled out.. It turns out my house has a Pressure Reducing Valve which failed, causing the water pressure to jump rapidly, which triggered the T&P valve to open. .. Get a gauge and check your water pressure. If it's too high, a new T&P valve won't solve the issue.

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If you are applying to take an examination for a license or endorsement, you may be required to complete one of the following training programs before you submit your examination application

Yes, it is safe to assume that the T&P valve has failed and needs to be replaced. Even without the flood, a constant dripping is a sign of a problem.

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Any entity or individual who is approved to provide or instruct the 6-hour CPE is automatically approved to provide or instruct any of the examination training programs with one exception.  An individual may not instruct the 24-hour training program for the Medical Gas Piping Installation Endorsement Examination unless  the individual holds the Med Gas Endorsement on his or her Plumber or Plumber Inspector license.

However, that leaves open the question of whether there is actually a water heater problem. It is possible that the T&P valve failed independent of the temperature and pressure of the water heater - i.e., just a T&P valve problem.

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I closed it and restored water to the house, but it still has a steady drip (once every 15-30 seconds). The drop does not increase when hot water is being used, so it seems steady.

I know very little about home improvement (first time home owner). I had my hot water heater (located in my garage in the corner on a small pedestal) replaced in March of 2021 by a professional.

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My main question: should I do more debugging or is it safe to assume I just need to replace the T&P valve? My issue seems more extreme than most videos/articles about fixing a leaking valve and I want to know if I should investigate more serious concerns with the tank or plumbing?

*Apprentices Registration holders are only required to take 6 hours of CPE if they hold an endorsement. Some CE providers offer a special Apprentice training program that will satisfy the yearly CPE requirement. Contact your preferred provider for details.**Med Gas endorsement holders are required to take 2 hours of CPE every three years.

It is also possible that the water heater had problems - e.g., a failing thermostat - which resulted in an actual overtemperature/pressure situation. If that is the case then the T&P valve would open, as it should to prevent a tank explosion, but that it then failed to close after relieving the overtemperature/pressure problem. If that's what happened then yes, you still need a new T&P valve, but you may actually need something else replaced - anything from a thermostat on up to the entire water heater.