Wattsaqualock insertion depth

Before you get started, it's important to figure out how much water the different areas of your garden need. Here I've split my garden up into 3 zones. I've got Zone 1 on this side which are my high yield crops that are very thirsty. On this side, I've got Zone 2 - that's my experimental beds and my berries. They're going to need less water and up the back, I've got Zone 3 - my established fruit trees. These are going to need the least amount of water.

"Now I've inserted a reducing 'T' to allow the gauge to drop from 19mm down to 13mm. It's just a simple case of plugging it in and I'm done."

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"Finally, clamping the end of your pipe or using an end plug is essential. Obviously it stops the water coming out, but it's also a good idea because it's an easy access point for you to flush your system at the end of each season - or if you happen to put a spade or fork through it. By flushing your system, you ensure that your drippers don't get clogged up with dirt and debris."

WattsAqualockBall Valve

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"With the circuit laid out on the bed, it's time to connect it up to the feeder line. I've inserted a 'T' piece into the circuit and am connecting it with some polypipe. The polypipe includes a tap, so when I have the bed fallow, or in the case of crops like garlic when it starts to die down, I can turn the water off."

You'll need to work out your water pressure. This will determine how many drippers you can put in each zone. Now I've done all the calculations for the different zones in my garden and I've got plenty of pressure, even though a lot of it's flowing up hill. If you're interested in doing your own calculations for your garden, you can visit the Gardening Australia website.

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"You'll need to work out your water flow rate. This will determine how many drippers you can put in each zone. Now I've done all the calculations for the different zones in my garden and I've got plenty of pressure, even though a lot of it is flowing uphill."

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"Hand-watering takes a long time and no matter how hard I try to make sure the water only goes into the soil, I still think I'm wasting quite a bit, so I'm going to do something about it," says Tino.

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"I'm treating Zone Two pretty much the same way I've treated Zone One - that is, with three rows in a closed circuit for each bed."

"So by installing a simple, but efficient irrigation system ensure you get the most out of our two most precious resources, water and time - which can be better spent weeding."

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Also, especially on sloping gardens, a vacuum breaker - a small air-release valve - should be connected to the highest point on the system. This means that when a zone is shut off, the drippers won't draw dirt, mulch and other particles into the system via the vacuum created by the water draining away.

I'm installing a drip-irrigation system throughout the productive part of my garden. Winter's a great time to be doing this cause there's less going on in the patch and regularly watering is the key to good productivity. Also, an irrigation system can make life a lot easier if you're busy all week.

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This valve is frequently installed right after the main water shut-off and is needed on homes with high or variable water pressure. Without one, high water ...

I've got my closed circuit laid out on the bed. Now it's time to connect it up to the feeder line. I've put a 'T' piece in the circuit here and I'm just going to connect it using this polypipe. Now in the polypipe I put a tap so when I have the bed fallow, or in the case of this garlic when it starts to die down, I can turn the water off when it doesn't need it.

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Now to Zone 3 - my fruit trees. I'm using the same piping that I used on Zones 1 and 2, but this time, I've got a closed loop of dripline and this is situated around the dripzone of the tree or the outer-perimeter. The reason that's important is the young fibrous roots that take up water are at the dripzone. Now as the tree gets bigger, the dripzone will also get bigger, but the beauty of drip irrigation is, it doesn't just drip down straight into the soil - via capillary action, it makes a cone shape, meaning you get far more coverage under the ground where it's needed than is visible on top. Finally, clamping the end of your pipe or using an end plug is essential. Obviously it stops the water coming out, but it's also a good idea because it's an easy access point for you to flush your system at the end of each season or if you happen to put a spade or fork through it. By flushing your system, you ensure that your drippers don't get clogged up with dirt and debris.

"I'm going to use 19 millimetre feeder pipe as the backbone of my irrigation system. Remember - the thicker the pipe, the better the flow."

"The pipe can be quite curly when it comes out, so it's a good idea to lay it out in the sun to soften it up, helping you to straighten it out. However, on cold days it's easiest to get a good size rock, straighten your pipe out and use the rock to pin it down. That will hold it in place until you're ready to cut."

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WattsAquaLock

"But in Zone Three, I'm using the same piping that I used on Zones One and Two, but this time I've laid closed loops of dripline around the dripzone of the tree. The young, fibrous roots that take up water are at the dripzone. Now as the tree gets bigger, the dripzone will also get bigger, but the beauty of drip irrigation is, it doesn't just drip down straight into the soil. Via capillary action, it soaks in as a cone shape, meaning you get far more coverage under the ground where it's needed than is visible on top."

Now the pipe can be quite curly when it comes out, so it's a good idea to lay it out in the sun so soften it up to straighten it out, but on freezing days like today, that's not really possible, so it's a good idea to get a good size rock, straighten your pipe out and place it on there. That will hold it in place until you're ready to cut.

Ensure flow is above the minimum rated flow by opening the hot water valve on two to four fixtures being supplied with tempered water from the panel. 2. Ensure ...

"Before you get started, it's important to figure out how much water the different areas of your garden need. Here I've split my garden up into three zones."

A pressure vacuum breaker (PVB) is a type of backflow prevention device, used to keep non-potable (or contaminated) water from entering the water supply.

Gardening Australia provides practical, realistic, and credible horticultural and gardening advice, inspiring and entertaining all Australian gardeners around the nation.

Aqualock insertion depthpdf

"I'm installing a drip-irrigation system throughout the productive part of my garden. Winter's a great time to be doing this cause there's less going on in the patch and regularly watering is the key to good productivity. Also, an irrigation system can make life a lot easier if you're busy all week."

"Next, I'm going to lay out three lines of 13 millimetre pipe across the bed. It's got drippers already built into it at 20 centimetre spacings. This way, I get a good wet line across the bed. I'm also going to make it into a closed circuit, which means I get good, even water distribution."

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Next up, I'm going to lay 3 lines of this 13 mill pipe out on the bed. It's got drippers already built into it at 20 centimetre spacings. This way, I get a good wet line across the bed and I'm also going to make it into a closed circuit which means I get good, even water distribution.

TINO CARNEVALE: Now hand watering takes a long time and no matter how hard I try to make sure the water only goes into the soil, I still think I'm wasting quite a bit, so I'm going to do something about it.

This is called the Pressure Relief Valve Discharge Pipe (or commonly called the 'P.R.V.'); It's a small pipe, which can only be seen on the outside wall of ...

Now I've got a reducing 'T' here because I'm going from 19 down to 13. It's just a simple case of plugging it in and I'm done.

Both check valves are engineered to maintain a minimum of 1 PSI throughout the backflow preventer during standard use. If the pressure exiting the device ever ...

I'm treating Zone 2 which is my experimental beds and my berries, pretty much the same way I've treated Zone 1 - that is with 3 rows in a closed circuit for each bed.

First up, Zone 1. I'm going to put in this 19 mill feeder pipe. This is the backbone to my irrigation system. Remember - the thicker the pipe, the better the flow and always put your pipes on one side of the bed. That way, you know where they are.