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No, you have the right idea. Often a problem up north...very cold ground water in the winter, and high humidity inside the house. Insulated tanks are one way to deal with it, and tempering valves are another way often used up north. I remember as far back as the 50's watching my day put one in in our basement, right under the toilet. As redwood, or someone, mentioned, the sweating can sometimes tip you off to a leaky flapper, or running fill valve. To some extent, the tank will come to room temperature and not sweat. And flushing out just 1.6 gals from the tank does not cool it down that much. But if you have a constant leaker, then that tank will be 40º !

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Flushing toilets with heated water to reduce condensation works to reduce the condensation but does not make sense today. These things may have made sense when oil was $4 a barrel. This summer that is definately not the case. I would use an insulated toilet tank.. ala [www.totousa.com] or the fit all one on the link provided by red.. First you have to pay to heat the water you flush with. Then you have to pay to air condition the air that the hot water and water heater load you add to your house. IMHO not a wise choice. If this is not available for your toilet maybe time to upgrade to Toto Drake or other modern toilet. Edited 1 times.

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I had a plumber install a temperator valve in order to stop the exterior of my toilet tank from sweating in the warmer weather. It helped for a season, maybe two, but it's no longer working. Anyone know what the problem may be?

Well .Here in Florida we use insulated tanks.If what he the plumber did was add a tempering valve ,it would have been at it's lowest open position.If this tempering valve is near the water heater you could open two cold water fixtures and re adjust the valve setting to wide open for a minute or two to remove build up in it .then return it to the original setting .But sounds like new valve could be needed.Good Luck.Not really sure of this type application for a tempering valve .Wait for others here to advise.

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Drawings and specifications ; 523188A, 1 1/2" sweat union, 8.8–70 gpm, 13.

Here in the Northeast it is not uncommon to have an Anti Sweat Valve installed on a water closet supply line. Before replacing it, I would first dye test the tank to make sure that the water is not leaking past the flapper into the bowl. The constant refilling will keep the tank cooler and may cause sweating. If that is not the case I would suspect that the valve has failed and requires replacement. Our forum sponsor sells them on this linked web page...[www.plumbingsupply.com] - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Since 1995 (3 years before Google started) PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor [www.PlumbingSupply.com]

It may need adjustment as Packy pointed out but I suspect... Redwood slides a big pile of chips onto leaking flapper. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Since 1995 (3 years before Google started) PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor [www.PlumbingSupply.com]

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my guess would be that the tempering valve is no longer working or is out of balance. is this toilet inside of your home? if so what was making the tank sweat. in my area this would only be necessary for toilets in unconditioned space where we would install toilets with a styrofoam lining inside the tank to prevent sweating. or did i misunderstand the question?

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