There is a very real issue with it back flowing into your drinking water. Without the back flow connected you have good flow then?

I would disassemble it all and confirm that it is assembled as the diagram shows. There certainly is issue with something not quite seating properly.

You said the water pressure is really low when just turning on the faucet? How did you turn the water off to make the connections?

The problem is certainly in the plunger in the backflow. Either the gasket is not seated well or the plunger is not going down all the way when it is off and not moving up far enough to seal the blackflow drain.

That is directly connected to the supply with no shut off. Are you certain of that? There is no crawl space or basement correct? The piping just goes into the wall and into the cabinet at the kitchen and connects directly to the supply for the cold on the cold water for the kitchen sink?

I shold have said this earlier, in the new package there were two O-RIngs, The thicker of the two I placed on the top of the assembly (and greased) I couldnt figure out where to put the second, it was the same diameter but was not as think. The water flows from the middle of the assembly so i figured it wasnt an o-ring issue

I've tried it many ways. Read somewhere that I may need to keep it partially closed to have enough pressure....tried open, closed, partially, always dumps out the top

Can you send a picture of the inside of it? The O-ring should seat in a slotted part is it seated? You mentioned it was loose it really should be pretty loose. Have you tried getting it loose again?

It is like the popit is too narrow or something, it doesnt come up, it is free to, put my screwdriver down there and pushed a little and it had free motion to come up and down...it just doesnt come up

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As far as option 2 being too much pressure you would have to check the pressure and the limits on the pool fill to assess whether you do need a PRV.

the unit that this replaced was strange too...every now and then it would leak out the top, I would fix it by messing with how i turned on the water to the unit...like turn the hose on and the outlet open before i turned it on, stuff like that...not always but it worked a few times. I tried that here too

It won't work without the bell cap on it. There seems to be some other pieces missing. Isn't there some plastic parts missing also?

that is everything that comes with the rebuild kit, the only thing that is strange is the second O-Ring...tried both on the top piece, no difference.

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I dont think so. The white pipe in the picture goes straight to my pool fill. I dont want to do this but....would it help if i cut the pvc? meaning if it works when the pvc is cut, my problem lies beyond the BFP?

Series LF25AUB-Z3 Water Pressure Reducing Valves are designed to reduce incoming water pressure to a sensible level to protect plumbing system components and reduce water consumption. This series is suitable for water supply pressures up to 300psi (20.7 bar) and may be adjusted from 25 - 75psi (172 - 517 kPa). The LF25AUB-Z3 features Lead-Free construction to comply with Lead-Free installation requirements. The standard setting is 50psi (345 kPa). All parts are quickly and easily serviceable without removing the valve from the line. The standard bypass feature permits the flow of water back through the valve into the main when pressures, due to thermal expansion on the outlet side of the valve, exceed the pressure in the main supply.

the preventor gets enough water pressure to shoot water out the top, but if the problem is that the poppet does not make contact with the bonnet then pressure may be a problem per the PDF i sent you earlier...but that is just my reasoning, and clearly I dont know what i'm doing

cut service at the main. The reason I made the reference is because the line is hooked up to my sink (its how they designed the house), and I'm afraid that there is not enough pressure for this device to function. My water pressure gague shows 80psi at the bib...but that seems high to me, there is not enough pressure to use a hose properly

There was a device with the exact same set up that this is replacing. There are no arrows on the valves. The grease came with the new assembly, i put a light layer of grease on the o-ring on the top of the unit per the instructions.

as far as I can tell there are two gaskets, the first is on the top portion of the top piece above the threads. The second is on the plunger? and it seals the plunger to the top piece, is that correct?

Hi, I'm Mike and I have 20+ years of experience in the home improvement field. I'll be glad to assist you today. You have this connected to your hose bib?

You are welcome. You may find if you just remove the unit that there is a piece of teflon tape restricting it or something like a pebble. I would try that before anything. I think you have everything hooked up and assembled correctly just that the water is restricted somehow.

You never had this before right? It is a new installation? Do the shut off valves have direction flow arrows on them? What did you use for grease?

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Are you sure that you connected the supply to the correct end? If you were looking at the picture above the inlet water is to the bottom?

the plunger (described as poppet in the diagram) seems to sit to far down, however if you look at the first of the three pictures i sent where i have it apart in stages, the platform is resting at the top of its guides, there is only a spring a platform and the piece that it sits on, the platform moves freely, and within the guides. The problem is related to the poppet not seating with the bonnet assembly for whatever reason

spraying at least 4' and it did not look like it was spraying much. So you can either find what is restricting the flow into that hose bib or is there another place that you can make the connection?

the plunger doesnt come up enough to create a seal, it moves, but not enough. it feels like there should be a larger plunger but the replacement part is the exact same as the OEM that came with the unit

There is something wrong with the water pressure for sure if you can't even run a hose off of that hose bib. It is possible to have 80lbs of pressure but still no flow. That is why I think there is a shut off like the one that I pictured much earlier. It is either not turned on all the way or there is a restriction or the stem in the shut off feeding the hose bib is broken and the gate is mostly closed. I do not think that there is enough pressure to keep the plunger closed. Even in the picture that you had of it leaking out if there was good flow the water would be spraying at least 4

it leaks if the outlet is on or off..or partially open. I do not have the very top bell on at the moment (was on, but took it off when there was a problem so i could try to see it), but everything else is installed.

it would be enough to run the pool fill. Funny thing is that the last backflow preventor worked, it was just rusted and I had a leak in one of the valves, I decided to replace the entire thing as it was 13 years old and had seen better days.

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1/2" I think, i had to use a converter. I am replacing an existing unit of a different model, but both are the same 3/4.

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Its clear. when i first had the problem i noticed the popit seemed to be be loose, thought it might be the problem and installed a brand new assembly

correct, that is why i dont trust the gauge. i have a 3/4 hose on a 1/2 line, that could be the problem, but even then its not enough water to really spray. I ended up tapping into my sprinkler line when i want to use a hose.

That helps a lot . There must be a blockage in the outlet pipe. Is there a filter in between the outlet and the pool fill? Or check valve?

I have a hard time believing the gauge, but that is what it says. If water is off to the inlet then it doesnt leak; water is on to the house

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Sounds like a good name for it. The water flow out of the hose bib is not enough to run the hose you say? You put a pressure gauge on it and it says 80lbs but the flow is very low?

The line to the unit also goes to the bib. When I shut off the inlet on the unit, it doesnt leak. This thing only runs to my pool fill.

I do not think that option three is an option unless the flow is good without the back flow which would simply mean there was an obstruction and if the flow is good without the unit then you could connect it back again since removing it would likely expose the blockage.

Sounds like I have three options, 1. fix the pressure problem (if possible), 2. bypass this backflow to hook the pool fill to the sprinkler line and that backflow unit, or 3. Replace this backflow unit with a new unit that either has different pressure requirements or the same unit assuming that there is a problem somewhere that we cant find

it worked before, but it was a different preventor. I'm wonding if the reason I had two different preventors was due to the pressure differences between this connection and the sprinkler line the second is on

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I can run pvc from the sprinkler line (coincidentally it is off of the other backflow preventor) to connect the pvc that is on the outlet from this unit, but that would not look clean. Sad thing is that this is only going to a pool fill that is more or less a toilet fill. I dont need much pressure at all. So my next question is, while a backflow preventor is important to keep from contaminating the water in the house, if the pool fill is above the water level, is there a real danger of backflow?

I guess I'll call someone out to try to figure out the pressure problem. In the mean time, its just a pool fill and my hose will work till I get someone out. Thank you for all of your help

Under the sink there is a loop that feeds my Reverse Osmosis unit. When I had the RO installed, they did it wrong and hooked it up to the line that goes to this hose bib...I had RO water filling (or trying to fill) my pool for a week until they fixed it, that is the only reason I know that the hose bib runs under the sink. There may be a valve that I can not find, but it appears that the only shut offs are for the sink (hot and cold) and for the RO unit, both drain and supply.

It is still loose, the new is about the same as the old. the replacement parts were the exact same size as the parts that came with the unit. I looked into the outlet and it appeared to be free

There is a T to the hosebib, the bib is after the inlet for the preventor, so the hose bib is not effected when you turn the service to the backflow preventor off. I only brought it up because I've noticed that the pressure for the hose is aweful

So the supply comes off of the kitchen supply, correct? Is there a shut off on the kitchen supply for the supply feeding the unit?

It only leaks from under the bell, when I have the bell off I can see that the popit is not coming in contact with the top piece