When water is not being run in the building the water pressure should not change. If you observe water pressure just after plumbing fixtures have been run you will see the immediate pressure regulator response - it should restore water pressure to its set point. If, after that time no water is run in the building for some time period, say eight hours overnight, the water pressure should be the same.

Wattspressure reducing valve adjustment

pressure gauges may become inaccurate or sticky. Try tapping gently on the pressure gauge to see if its pressure reading changes.

Star I see a hydronic (hot water) heating boiler with at least 2 circulator pumps, and with what looks like asbestos lagging coating the boiler top and sides (if so, hazardous, do not disturb it). You are right that a hydronic heating system should not be consuming water; there is a leak somewhere; often a small boiler leak seeps out on a hot component of the boiler, piping, or radiator/baseboard where the water evaporates; therefore you may not find a puddle or obvious leak point. However there will in such cases always be a build-up of crud and corrosion and deposits of salts left behind as the water evaporates, so a careful and thorough inspection can find such leaks unless the leak is where piping or components are in an inaccessible area such as a wall or ceiling cavity. While the manufacturers are careful to say that the pressure/reducer/regulator should not be used as an automatic water feeder, that's what almost everyone relies on in residential hot water heating systems. Sometimes the regulator can be cleaned - there's a screen that clogs - to get it working again; most techs don't bother, they just replace it. Your system is, in a subtle way, unsafe if its water feed system isn't working since when no one is around the system loses water and can thus be damaged or could overheat. Your comments are on a page for BUILDING water pressure regulators. To read about the pressure-reducer / regulator used on hot water heating systems please see PRESSURE REDUCING VALVE WATER FEEDER INSTALLATION

A water pressure regulator or pressure reducing may be installed. See the illustration at the top of this page and at left. A device, usually a few inches across and often shaped a bit like a bell, may be found installed quite close to the building water meter.

Sometimes the municipal water supply may itself be temporarily shut down or running at reduced flow. Check with your local water department or neighbors.

One water pressure regulator failure mode causes gradual increases in building water pressure above the set point on the regulator.

You may see a set-screw secured by a lock-nut on the top of the pressure regulating valve or water pressure reducing valve that is built right into a water meter, or more often there is a separate device, shown in our photos, that includes a screw (and lock nut) or knob that will permit the water pressure regulator to be adjusted to set the water pressure up or down in the building.

This may be due to an internal failure or leak in the water pressure regulator, dirt on the regulator valve seat, or a leak in an internal regulator valve or pressure-sensing diaphragm if your valve uses such a component.

WATER PRESSURE REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT FAQs - questions & answers about adjusting water pressure, posted originally on this page.

If a piece of debris, (rust flake, dirt, mineral fragment) happens to jam on this valve seat, the valve may not close fully as it is intended to do at a given water pressure setting.

Waterpressureregulatorvalve adjustment

With the apology that of course there could be something else going on, the most likely or common explanation of having to set the pressure regulator quite High just to get an acceptable flow rate is that there is either of valve partly closed or there are pipes that are clogged in the system. The clogged pipes would be a more suspect explanation if the hot water pressure was noticeably worse than cold because usually those hot water pipes clog first.

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If a gentle attempt to flush debris from the valve seat makes no difference and the regulator continues to overfeed water to the building, the pressure regulator needs to be replaced. This will require temporarily shutting off water at the main building water shutoff, draining water pressure from the building piping, then removing and replacing the pressure regulator device.

Contact your account manager right away to get personal advice. We're available Monday through Friday, from 09:00 until 17:00.

We recently purchased a former commercial building that we are going to renovate and occupy as our home. It comes with a 1970's hot-water heating system with a boiler (see attached photo). The makeup water valve has always been kept shut off, and the pressure in the 'closed' system drops by about 1lb every couple of days. The residential zone is two storeys (2 zones to this system) and I've been keeping the pressure between 15psi and 18psi to push against the 12' of head pressure to feed the upstairs radiators. My questions: does that sound correct so far? And, regarding the pressure regulator just after the makeup water valve - I was told that it's "faulty" and won't control the temperature properly (hence the makeup water cannot be left turned on, I have to bring it up to 18psi and then shut it off again). Do you think if I adjust the pressure regulator that I might get it to do what it is supposed to? There's obviously a small leak somewhere - and the system has been gone over thoroughly before we purchased looking for leaks (found none that they would admit to ;-) ). Any input would be appreciated, thanks. We'd like to be able to go away for a couple of months in the winter time but would have to hire someone to come in and tweak the pressure once a week or so as the system stands now.

If a small adjustment to the pressure reducing valve does not produce the desired water pressure and flow rate in the building, it's not a good idea to set the control to the extremes of its adjustment range. These devices work best operating near the middle of their rated pressure and flow ranges.

Distinguishing between static water pressure, dynamic water pressure, and water flow rate can help diagnose water problems in a building. Here we explain these concepts and we describe how to measure water pressure and flow at a property where either municipal water supply or a private well and pump water supply is in use.

At the end of a test period during which no one has run any water (we recommend over night if possible or eight hours), make a note of the water pressure again.

parallel pressure reducing valves/water pressure regulators can be installed, one set at a higher psi flow rate than the other. For example installing a Watts Model 223 pressure reducer set at 50 psi in parallel with a second Watts 223 pressure reducer set to 60 psi will allow increased total water flow capacity during periods of peak water demand.

Thanks so much for your detailed reply, I will make my way over to the other page and continue this there if you don't mind :-)

at WATER PRESSURE TOO HIGH: DANGERS, setting water pressure too high can cause both plumbing problems and actual serious safety hazards at buildings.

The water meter is often installed where water pipes enter the building and the pressure regulator will be installed just after the water meter on the same pipe.

During the day when building occupants are frequently using water, even if the pressure regulator is feeding water at a pressure above the intended setting, no one may notice, because water use "bleeds off" the excess pressure.

Hydraulicpressure reducing valve adjustment

This article describes exactly how to adjust a building water pressure reducer or water pressure regulator control, as part of diagnosing and correcting poor building water pressure or perhaps the need for a replacement water pressure regulator/pressure reducer.

If your water pressure problems are concerned with a private well water supply system or a small community well water supply system (well, pump, water pressure tank, and pump pressure control switch) see the notes just below.

What would cause a water regulator hooked to Municipal Supply to require a very high setting such a 70 PSI just to get a relatively moderate flow rate?

Watch out: Increasing the building water pressure by adjusting the pressure regulator (or a pump pressure control switch) will not fix a poor water delivery rate from the source (municipal water main or local private water pump), but if the pressure was set too low to start with you may see an improvement by this adjustment. If your loss of water pressure or flow was sudden, it's not likely to be a problem with the pressure regulator except in the less common cases of a blockage or failure in the regulator itself.

Watch out: Don't overdo-it. Just a turn or two should make a difference. Keep track of the number of turns so that you can go back to where you started if necessary.

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Waterpressure Reducing Valve

Notice that in the middle of the valve is a modular seat and disc assembly and at the bottom of the valve is the actual valve seat (above the "A").

By initial static building water pressure we mean the water pressure at the start of a test interval over which we're going to watch for a change in building water pressure.

If you have a water pressure gauge already installed (some homes include a water pressure gauge close to the pressure regulator even where the water supply is from a community supply) you may be reading water pressure on the gauge.

How to adjustpressure reducing valveon boiler

At WATER PRESSURE REDUCER / REGULATOR we explain that selecting the proper water pressure reducing valve (or water pressure regulating valve) is important to avoid both unsafe conditions (wire draw), and poor performance (water pressure too high or too low, noisy valve operation, etc).

Sparcopressure reducing valve adjustment

While it may be possible to disassemble and clean and replace water pressure regulator internal parts, unless homeowner repairs are specifically described in the installation and maintenance manual for your water pressure regulator, we do not recommend trying that.

Flush the regulator valve seat: you might be able to remove a bit of debris on the pressure regulator valve seat or in the valve assembly by loosening the lock nut and temporarily increasing the set pressure, followed by running water out at a nearby fixture.

But at night when no one is using water, a slow leak at the water regulator will feed more water into the building piping.

Use a water pressure gauge that is already installed, or an add-on water pressure gauge that you can connect to a convenient fitting such as a hose bib or clothes washer hook-up.

see details at WATER FEEDER Valves, Hydronic) include a bypass lever that can be lifted to temporarily bypass the pressure control and flush water through the valve.

Some readers whose homes are connected to municipal or community water supply systems have commented that the water pressure in the home has been observed to increase to a pressure above the water pressure regulator set-pressure overnight when no one is using water.

How to adjust waterpressureregulator without gauge

If ending static water pressure is lower than your start point we suspect that there is a leaky plumbing fixture, dripping faucet, or running toilet.

This article describes how to observe, diagnose, or perhaps how to test a water pressure regulator that seems to be misbehaving.

Pressure reducing valve adjustmentscrew

In an extreme case (which we OPINE would be unusual) combining a defective water pressure regulator and high municipal supply pressure (say over 80 psi i the water mains), the result could be leaky plumbing fittings, pipes, fixtures.

It's rather easy to lose a tiny part or damage something, leaving yourself with no water in the building for still longer while someone dashes out for a replacement part.

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WATER PRESSURE REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice. INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS Or use the SEARCH BOX found below to Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia Try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly. Search the InspectApedia website Note: appearance of your Comment below may be delayed: if your comment contains an image, photograph, web link, or text that looks to the software as if it might be a web link, your posting will appear after it has been approved by a moderator. Apologies for the delay. Only one image can be added per comment but you can post as many comments, and therefore images, as you like. You will not receive a notification when a response to your question has been posted. Please bookmark this page to make it easy for you to check back for our response. Our Comment Box is provided by Countable Web Productions countable.ca Comment Form is loading comments... Citations & References In addition to any citations in the article above, a full list is available on request. Watts, 815 Chestnut Street, North Andover, MA, USA 01845-6098, web search 09/18/2010 Watts Regulator Corporation, 815 Chestnut Street, North Andover, MA, USA 01845-6098, provides pressure and temperature relief valves, water pressure test gauges, water pressure regulators, backflow preventers, check valves, and other plumbing and heating controls and supplies. Website: http://www.watts.com/ Watts Backflow preventers - 978-688-1811 Watts Control valves - 713-943-0688 for example Watts pressure reducing valves, original source: http://www.watts.com/pages/learnAbout/reducingValves.asp?catId=64 Watts Drainage products - 828-288-2179 Watts Potable water PEX plumbing - 978-688-1811 Watts Water safety controls - 978-688-1811 Watts Water quality & conditioning products - 352-465-2000 Access Water Energy, PO Box 2061, Moorabbin, VIC 3189, Australia, Tel: 1300 797 758, email: sales@accesswater.com.au Moorabbin Office: Kingston Trade Centre, 100 Cochranes Rd, Moorabbin, VIC 3189Australian supplier of: Greywater systems, Solar power to grid packages, Edwards solar systems, Vulcan compact solar systems, water & solar system pumps & controls, and a wide rage of above ground & under ground water storage tanks: concrete, steel, plastic, modular, and bladder storage tanks. Smart Tank, Installation Instructions, Flexcon Industries, 300 Pond St., Randolph MA 02368, www.flexconind.com, Tel: 800-527-0030 - web search 07/24/2010, original source: http://www.flexconind.com/pdf/st_install.pdf [Copy on file as /water/Smart_Tank_Flexcon.pdf ] - Principles and Practice of Disinfection, Preservation and Sterilization (Hardcover)by A. D. Russell (Editor), W. B. Hugo (Editor), G. A. J. Ayliffe (Editor), Blackwell Science, 2004. ISBN-10: 1405101997, ISBN-13: 978-1405101998."This superb book is the best of its kind available and one that will undoubtedly be useful, if not essential, to workers in a variety of industries. Thirty-one distinguished specialists deal comprehensively with the subject matter indicated by the title ... The book is produced with care, is very readable with useful selected references at the end of each chapter and an excellent index. It is an essential source book for everyone interested in this field. For pharmacy undergraduates, it will complement the excellent text on pharmaceutical microbiology by two of the present editors."The Pharmaceutical Journal: "This is an excellent book. It deals comprehensively and authoritatively with its subject with contributions from 31 distinguished specialists. There is a great deal to interest all those involved in hospital infection ... This book is exceptionally well laid out. There are well chosen references for each chapter and an excellent index. It is highly recommended." The Journal of Hospital Infection.: "The editors and authors must be congratulated for this excellent treatise on nonantibiotic antimicrobial measures in hospitals and industry ... The publication is highly recommended to hospital and research personnel, especially to clinical microbiologists, infection-control and environmental-safety specialists, pharmacists, and dieticians."New England Journal of Medicine: City Hospital, Birmingham, UK. Covers the many methods of the elimination or prevention of microbial growth. Provides an historical overview, descriptions of the types of antimicrobial agents, factors affecting efficacy, evaluation methods, and types of resistance. Features sterilization methods, and more. Previous edition: c1999. DNLM: Sterilization--methods. U.S. Army Field Manual 21-10, Field Hygiene and Sanitation, 1988, web search 07/02/2010, original source: http://www.enlisted.info/field-manuals/fm-21-10-field-hygiene-and-sanitation.shtmlThe purpose of this manual is to assist individual soldiers, unit commanders, leaders and field sanitation teams in preventing disease and environmental injuries. The manual provides information on preventive medicine measures (PMM) to the individual soldier as well as essential information for the unit commander, unit leaders, and the unit field sanitation team on applying unit level PMM. In addition to citations & references found in this article, see the research citations given at the end of the related articles found at our suggestedCONTINUE READING or RECOMMENDED ARTICLES. Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd., 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2. Tel: (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 Email: info@carsondunlop.com. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors. Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The HOME REFERENCE BOOK - the Encyclopedia of Homes and to use illustrations from The ILLUSTRATED HOME . Carson Dunlop Associates provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material. In gratitude we provide links to tsome Carson Dunlop Associates products and services. ADVERTISEMENT